Smooth Interior

Black to the future

Was a boring job but someone has to do it.The interior trims had been gathering dirt and dust for years now. Most of them were either in the boot or foot well too.With things coming together outside it was time to start giving the inside a bit of TLC and put things back into place. I pulled all my door trims and boot trims out and gave them a good wipe off. Spray glued sound deadening foam back in place where it was coming away and finally used some great stuff I found called black to the future to give them all a wipe over and return them to their former glory. Here are a few of the bits ready to go back on/in.


Highly recommend the black to the future. Works really well and a little goes a long way.

And here is all the boot put back together! I neatly trimmed out the carpet around the battery box to get it all fitting back in as factory looking as possible.


That’s a wrap!

Although I am not a fan of fake carbon as i work with real carbon as part of my day job I had seen some pretty decent wraps around and as I wanted to freshen up some parts of my trim and currently did not have time to mould them in carbon myself I thought I would give it a go. Main thing that stood out for me was my door kick plates so I gave them a whirl.


It was pretty easy to use in fairness. Little bit of heat helped get it forming to the lettering and shape nicely. I was quite please with the end result!

And here it is fitted in the car with a added ‘3 Rotor’ touch on the door sill!


Out with the old… 

My rotting old leather gaiters needed to go! I found some nice red stitched ones online and got them customer finished with  silver lettering ‘RX7’. They were just the touch to tidy up the centre console area.

Much more involved fitting them than you imagine as they are factory stapled to a plastic frame work! Getting staples back in was one of the hardest bits! You need a heavy duty stapler!

Sound Off

I had not been intending to start anything sound system wise until the car was all up and running but as I was in a bit of a stale mate on that front I had most of what I needed and the interior panels were not yet properly refitted so I thought why the hell not.

I wanted to fit some 6×9 into the rear speaker points which  turns out not to be a simple task. Nothing ever is! As there is not really room behind the interior panel to fit a speaker properly and certainly not in the factory bracket I decided to cut away the centre of the factory speaker grill and mount the 6×9 straight into that. With some additional retaining clips put on the back of the speaker to stop it all falling back out of the panel when I hit a bump it actually worked quite well!

More of a bulky fit than I would have liked but hey they should do the job!


Just when I thought that fitting some plain round 13cm speakers behind the front door card should be plain sailing.. Oh, you guessed it.. not to be the case. Firstly you need to wreck the old speaker to detach it from the plastic speaker holder that fits in the door. Then the holes are in a completely different place to anything else you can get off the shelf and any adapter I could find in the UK at least. So as usual I had to make something up myself.

Well I drew it all up and got a friend to laser cut me a pair in ABS. Then it was plain sailing!


Getting all Revved up!

This could do with a lot more explanation than I am going to give here. What I will do though is give you this link which takes you to a thread I started about the problem and contains a link to instructions on how to fix it if you are lucky!

How to fix you you RX7 Tachometer

If you rev counter bouncers up and down like crazy and mis-reads then check this out. What I will add is make sure you clearly mark the position of the needle in relation to the dial face before you remove it. I did it slightly different to how the manual suggests. I spun the needle back counter clockwise as  far as it would go and rotated the dial face back with it with the needle resting against the stop pin. When the needle would go no further I made sure the stop pin was just in contact and marked around the face with tape and some scribe marks to be sure I could line it all back up on reassembly.


Also note when you rebuild it you need to be sure the needle is back in it’s furthermost counterclockwise rotation point. I did this by loosely fitting in and then spinning it back with my finger. After a turn or so it should be right back. You may not feel it stop though as the needle will spin on the shaft until fully  engaged.

I had the capacitors on my board replaced and tried it without soldering most of the rest of the board as it looked okay. This did not work. I was not until the rest of the board had the joints re-soldered did it work. I think the main focus would be the joints on the chip.

The final note for a happy tach reading is if you now find your rev counter is reading too high or too low. Then all is not lost. Mine over read by about 500rpm when I put it back! On the FD3 rev counter board there is a little blue component with a hex head. This controls the rpm calibration.


A potentiometer I believe. It will be a bit trial and error but turning this left or right will adjust your reading. I found counterclockwise rotation of about 30degrees sorted my 500rpm over reading. That is the same as one number to the next on a clock face for an easy visual reference. Good Luck!

So after the car having a faulty rev counter since I first got it 5 years or so ago it finally has been fixed!!

Inside Story

Here are a few more pictures of how the interior is coming along now and the speaker fit I am slowly working on in between other jobs!


As I had no plans in using the rear seats ever I thought I might do something a little different in the back.. Had a load of stereo gear kicking around for ages so good time to put it to use! I spent a good while templating the shape in the back before finally committing it to wood and it was worth the extra messing around as the fit is pretty good.


I might have to back seat this job (sorry, couldn’t resist!) for a while now while I do my engine rebuild but will get back on it as soon as I can.

Sound Off.

Found some time early summer to crack on with my rear seat speaker conversion! I don’t know if it will get used much because I enjoy listening to the engine too much but hey! On the other hand if it does get used it will need to be loud to hear it over the top of the screaming 3 rotor! So I finished up cutting holes in my panel, test fitting my latches and brackets, then set about dummy mounting everything in place and piloting all the holes. Then it was over to carpet. I have not done this for years!! Brings back the youth! LOL!

Soundsystem (4)

The carpet was nice quality and went well with the existing interior carpet of the car.

Now it was on to finally fitting up my stereo gear and wiring it all in!

Soundsystem (2)

Nice result and good use of the space I reckon.. My other thought with this was if I or the next owner decide to do away with the speakers, the panel could easily be converted into a nice little storage bin at a fraction of a cost of the genuine Mazda one! win win!

Bride to be

I have always loved the look of the Bride seats and this was one of the things that kind of let the car down a bit. The seats looked a little shabby. After keeping my eyes out and bidding on various sets I finally came across a pair of Bride seats that would do the trick.

The seats came with some rubbish universal rails fitted no good for mounting into the FD. Genuine Bride rails cost a pretty penny.. and you know me. I figured how had can it be to make some adapters or my own rails! So first job was to find a spare set of OEM seats I could rob the rails off an play with. That actually turned out to work in my favour as I ended up with a spare set of seats nicer than my current ones!

Next I set about stripping the rails and seats out of my car for some measurements and mocking up.

After cross checking the hole pitches between the OEM seats and the Brides and checking relative heights of each seat I was pretty sure I could make some simple adapter plates from steel to mount the seats on the OEM rails! I mocked some up in MDF as shown above to test the theory and it worked a charm! Perfect! Now just to get them laser cut in steel. For this to work I also needed to remove the seatbelt buckle mount point from the OEM rails so I could re-mount it with the adapter plates to keep it in the right position.

Bride seat (3)

So just time for a little test fit with the metal work and  it was ready to be painted for final fit. I should note that these plates also had additional spacers mounted between them and the seat to get the correct height and clear the low point of the Bride seats.

Bride Seat (14)

Could be a factory fit aye!!

Any the final seat fitting looked like so:

Bride Seat (11)

Shelved it

There was just one final piece of my interior puzzle missing and that was a parcelshelf. First of all these things are like unicorn pooh and second of all I was pretty confident that with my relocated large battery the factory parcel shelf would not fit. I had asked around many times before for a shelf in not too good condition but usable with no luck. The thought being I most likely would need to modify it so I did not want to start with a perfect one!! Finally I stumbled across one. A bit more than I wanted to pay but other than some speaker holes it was something.

After a quick trial fit when it arrived it was clear there was a clash with the top of the box. Eventually I  got the nerve up to start hacking away at the shelf.  Leaving a rather large hole in it!

No worries, a nice carbon panel and some speaker grilles soon resolved that and then voila! It was done!


Quite a small thing in the grand scheme of it but nice to get to add the finishing touches to the interior at long last!

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