Black to the future
Was a boring job but someone has to do it.The interior trims had been gathering dirt and dust for years now. Most of them were either in the boot or foot well too.With things coming together outside it was time to start giving the inside a bit of TLC and put things back into place. I pulled all my door trims and boot trims out and gave them a good wipe off. Spray glued sound deadening foam back in place where it was coming away and finally used some great stuff I found called black to the future to give them all a wipe over and return them to their former glory. Here are a few of the bits ready to go back on/in.
Highly recommend the black to the future. Works really well and a little goes a long way.
And here is all the boot put back together! I neatly trimmed out the carpet around the battery box to get it all fitting back in as factory looking as possible.
That’s a wrap!
Although I am not a fan of fake carbon as i work with real carbon as part of my day job I had seen some pretty decent wraps around and as I wanted to freshen up some parts of my trim and currently did not have time to mould them in carbon myself I thought I would give it a go. Main thing that stood out for me was my door kick plates so I gave them a whirl.
It was pretty easy to use in fairness. Little bit of heat helped get it forming to the lettering and shape nicely. I was quite please with the end result!
And here it is fitted in the car with a added ‘3 Rotor’ touch on the door sill!
Out with the old…
My rotting old leather gaiters needed to go! I found some nice red stitched ones online and got them customer finished with silver lettering ‘RX7’. They were just the touch to tidy up the centre console area.
Much more involved fitting them than you imagine as they are factory stapled to a plastic frame work! Getting staples back in was one of the hardest bits! You need a heavy duty stapler!
I had not been intending to start anything sound system wise until the car was all up and running but as I was in a bit of a stale mate on that front I had most of what I needed and the interior panels were not yet properly refitted so I thought why the hell not.
I wanted to fit some 6×9 into the rear speaker points which turns out not to be a simple task. Nothing ever is! As there is not really room behind the interior panel to fit a speaker properly and certainly not in the factory bracket I decided to cut away the centre of the factory speaker grill and mount the 6×9 straight into that. With some additional retaining clips put on the back of the speaker to stop it all falling back out of the panel when I hit a bump it actually worked quite well!
More of a bulky fit than I would have liked but hey they should do the job!
Just when I thought that fitting some plain round 13cm speakers behind the front door card should be plain sailing.. Oh, you guessed it.. not to be the case. Firstly you need to wreck the old speaker to detach it from the plastic speaker holder that fits in the door. Then the holes are in a completely different place to anything else you can get off the shelf and any adapter I could find in the UK at least. So as usual I had to make something up myself.
Well I drew it all up and got a friend to laser cut me a pair in ABS. Then it was plain sailing!
Getting all Revved up!
This could do with a lot more explanation than I am going to give here. What I will do though is give you this link which takes you to a thread I started about the problem and contains a link to instructions on how to fix it if you are lucky!
If you rev counter bouncers up and down like crazy and mis-reads then check this out. What I will add is make sure you clearly mark the position of the needle in relation to the dial face before you remove it. I did it slightly different to how the manual suggests. I spun the needle back counter clockwise as far as it would go and rotated the dial face back with it with the needle resting against the stop pin. When the needle would go no further I made sure the stop pin was just in contact and marked around the face with tape and some scribe marks to be sure I could line it all back up on reassembly.
Also note when you rebuild it you need to be sure the needle is back in it’s furthermost counterclockwise rotation point. I did this by loosely fitting in and then spinning it back with my finger. After a turn or so it should be right back. You may not feel it stop though as the needle will spin on the shaft until fully engaged.
I had the capacitors on my board replaced and tried it without soldering most of the rest of the board as it looked okay. This did not work. I was not until the rest of the board had the joints re-soldered did it work. I think the main focus would be the joints on the chip.
The final note for a happy tach reading is if you now find your rev counter is reading too high or too low. Then all is not lost. Mine over read by about 500rpm when I put it back! On the FD3 rev counter board there is a little blue component with a hex head. This controls the rpm calibration.
A potentiometer I believe. It will be a bit trial and error but turning this left or right will adjust your reading. I found counterclockwise rotation of about 30degrees sorted my 500rpm over reading. That is the same as one number to the next on a clock face for an easy visual reference. Good Luck!
So after the car having a faulty rev counter since I first got it 5 years or so ago it finally has been fixed!!
Here are a few more pictures of how the interior is coming along now and the speaker fit I am slowly working on in between other jobs!
As I had no plans in using the rear seats ever I thought I might do something a little different in the back.. Had a load of stereo gear kicking around for ages so good time to put it to use! I spent a good while templating the shape in the back before finally committing it to wood and it was worth the extra messing around as the fit is pretty good.
I might have to back seat this job (sorry, couldn’t resist!) for a while now while I do my engine rebuild but will get back on it as soon as I can.